Replacing a 944 Transmission Mount

After trying unsuccessfully to find the shake under braking, I think I have found the issue.    It took raising up the rear of the vehicle and finding that I could easily moved the transmission back and forth with very little effort.  The transmission mount is bad!   

This is how you change it.

Before you start, loosen the lugs on the rear wheels since they will need to be removed.  It is always easier when the wheels are on the ground to break the lugs.

Now you will need to jack up the car and put the jack stands underneath it.  I chose to put the jack stands on the area where the shocks are mounted to.

You will also want to chock up the front wheels so they do not roll.  Remember, when the rear of the Porsche is up in the air, there is no emergency brake or transmission friction to hold the car in place.

Use what you have….

Remove the rear wheels on both sides.

Use a hydraulic jack to support the weight of the transmission.  Just place it underneath and jack up the jack just to the point of the transmission moving a very little bit.  You just want the weight of the transmission to be on the jack.  If you go too far, you will lift the car off the jack stands and you do not want that.

Use another jack to support the weight of the passenger side rear control arm. 

Remove the lower shock bolt from the lower control arm and lower the jack.  This will give you enough room to slide the cross member out.  You may be able to get the cross member out without this step but I was unable to…

Remove the 2 13mm bolts that connect the transmission mount to the transmission.

I used a couple of extensions to get to those two bolts from the passenger side.

Remove the clamp from the fuel filter.

Remove the 2 18mm bolts that hold the rear sub frame in place.

Look at those cobwebs! And i drive this car!

Lower the transmission down enough so that you can slide the cross member out the passenger side of the vehicle.  Do not let the weight of the transmission lay solely on the torque tube. 

Slide the cross member out the passenger side of the car.

Make note of the way the mount is positioned in the cross member.  Then remove the two bolts that connect the piece that connects to the transmission and remove.

Remove the 4 bolts on the top side of the cross member.

I purchased a Lindsey Racing solid mount which came with new bolts.  If you did the same or purchased the super mount, the installation will be the same.

Use the supplied bolts and washers to mount the new mount to the cross member.

Top of the cross member with new bolts
Bottom of the Cross Member with new bolts

Then use the remaining 2 bolts with washers to connect the piece that connects to the transmission.  Make sure that it is in the correct position.  It should look like the pictures.

Make sure you put that piece on the right way!

When sliding the cross member back into position, the two bolts that slide through the piece that connects to the transmission can be a bit tricky.  The head of those bolts are on the other side of the transmission and are hidden by a piece of rubber hose that blocks your view.  What I did was to slide those bolts on the best I could, and then find those bolts on the other side and push them through.  When they are all the way through, they are sunken into the side of the transmission, they may already be sunken in so it will make them hard to find.  Once you get those bolts through the piece that mounts to the transmission, the installation will be the reverse of the removal.

A little warning about the solid mount, it is loud, you hear all the transmission whine, the cool stuff as well as the stuff that you don’t want to hear.  However, the mound is really stiff and the car is so much more responsive with the solid mount in it!  I do recommend it if you can deal with the transmission noise, maybe spend the extra $100 and get the super mount with the rubber bushings.

Leave a Reply