Porsche 944 Body Repairs

Originally, this car was just going to be a track car, so I did not really care what it looked like.  But times have changed and I’ve decided to go ahead and try to make the car look as good as possible.  There are a couple of spots that need a little attention, and a few things that I wanted to do to take care of this.

The first thing I wanted to do was to remove the plastic molding that ran along the side of the car.  This car was missing a piece or two so it was a no brainer to just take it off. 

This stuff is jus glued on so removing it just takes a small screwdriver and some muscle.  This will peel off, sometimes all at once, and sometimes in pieces.  I find that if I moved slower, the strips came off in longer pieces.

Sometimes in Pieces…..

Once those pieces were removed, you are left with the glue residue.  I’m not sure how you would take that off if you were just trying to remove the molding, but the plan for this car was to repaint it so I sanded down the spots where there was molding with some 80 grit sand paper.  Eventually going down to 220 grit to really smooth it out.

The next part of the body repair project was to repair the driver’s side lower valence?  The area just ahead of the rear wheel towards the bottom of the rear quarter panel.  This spot on the car was a little rusty and I wanted to make sure that the rust did not spread.

What I did was to cut out and remove as much rust as possible.  I used a handheld grinder to cut away the rust area.  I just used a cut off wheel on the grinder to accomplish this.  I then used a wire wheel attachment to clean the area down to bare metal. 

Once that was complete, it was time for some filler!  This obviously is not the correct way to do this.  filler should be used to fill in minor imperfections, not gaping holes in your car!  But, I’m not perfect and I do not feel like cutting out the entire sill to repair this correctly, so filler it is!

Just mix the filler using the instructions on the back, and fill that hole!  I made this as flat as possible and took a couple of days of filling, sanding, filling, sanding to get it to look pretty good, using 220 grit sandpaper to smooth out the filler

Once I was satisfied, I cleaned it off and sprayed it with some primer.  If you are going to go this route, plan on doing a little bit of work for a couple of days, letting the filler dry, sanding it down, and re-filling the areas that need it after the sanding.  You’ll know when you are done; it will be a smooth transition from the untouched body over the filler.

There were some spots on the other side of the car that needed repair as well.  The passenger sill is in a lot worse shape than the driver’s side.  I did not realize this until I was going over spots to repair before paint and discovered that the sill is completely wavy when looking at it. 

The hills are alive……

I decided to grind down the high points with my grinder, and then do the same filler repair technique as described above to repair the damage.  I don’t believe that the sills are structural so that is how I did it.  I know it’s not right, but it would cost more than the car is worth to fix correctly.

Passenger Sill After Grinding
Still a little wavy, but better.

I did the filler technique in a couple of more spots that needed it as well.  There was an indent on the front of the car that I filled.

There were two spots on the roof that were repaired.

And the spot behind the passenger wheel needed work.  There were just cracks in the plastic bumper that I decided to smooth out.

And that was it for the filler.

I also sanded off all the crusty decals that were on the car.  They did not look good and I did not plan on replacing them.  So off they went……

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