DSM Engine Specification

I posted a few days ago about my Eagle Talon.  As I was thinking about it some more I remembered that I did a lot of research on what modifications that I was going to do on the engine.  I am going to try and recap all the research I did here for anyone who would like to know what my thought process was.

As stated in my earlier post, after the engine broke its timing belt and smashed the valves, I pulled the head off and discovered that one of the pistons were cracked.  My first order of business was going to be rebuilding the bottom end of the block.  Since my car was a 91, it was equipped with the 6 bolt motor, meaning that the flywheel attached to the motor with 6 bolts.  The 2nd generation cars used a 7 bolt motor.  My plan was to take the block (and head) to a machine shop and have the block cleaned up, checked for cracks, and any signs of warping.  Once I found that the motor was ok, I was planning on rebuilding the bottom end with Crower Rods and Wiseco 8.1 Compression Pistons.  My reason for going with the lower compression pistons was to run a higher amount of boost in what I was hoping to be a “safer” environment.  This would have probably given me noticeable turbo lag but I was willing to put up with it for the safety of the lower compression.   I was going to continue to use the stock crankshaft and just replace all the bearings with new stock style equipment.  Keep in mind, there are people who get these engines up over 500HP on completely stock internals, so with the new rods and pistons I was thinking I would be good.

Obviously, if you read my post about the car originally, the head was also going to need to be rebuilt.  The plan was to have the valves replaced with the Brian Crower Stainless Steel Valves as well as the valve spring and retainer kit.  I would also have the valve guides checked at the machine shop and replaced if necessary.  I did give some thought to going with over sized valves in the head but after doing a lot of research I discovered that I would not be putting out enough power to warrant the extra work to install them.  I was then planning on using the Brian Crower stage 3 street/strip camshaft to get as much power as possible.  If I ever got this far in the build, I may have actually started with the stage 2 camshafts for drivability purposes and kept the door open to move to the stage 3 later on.  The plan was to run a lot of boost on a regular basis so I was more concerned with the possibility of valve float than anything else, hence the reason for going with the upgraded valve springs.

All of the above engine modifications are setting the stage for the fun part, the monster turbo that I was going to be running!  I had all intentions of using this car as my daily driver so the reliability of the car was going to be critical.  The decisions to go with the low compression pistons and the upgraded valve springs lead to the capability of running large amounts of boost on the street on a daily basis.  This was originally a Naturally Aspirated car so all of the turbo plumbing was going to be needed, Turbo manifold, intercooler, and of course the Turbo.

I had to start by looking for an exhaust manifold since the NA manifold would not work.  I eventually settled on going with a 2G ported manifold because that was the best option at the time.  It does appear that there are now a couple of other options out there for bolt up manifolds that look halfway decent.  The car was going to be daily driven and the 2G manifold was stated to be run in many 500+ HP DSM’s so it should do the trick.  Now for the Turbo, after much research and study as to what I wanted out of my motor, I decided to go with a Tubonetics 62-1 Turbo which is good for up to 750HP.  This would have left me plenty of room for additional tuning for larger power gains.  I was also going to go with an ETS 7” street intercooler kit which supposedly supports up to 450HP.  This may seem a little small but I did not want to make any modifications to the car, the 10.5” Race intercooler is good for up to 650HP but would require trimming and or removal of some brackets in the front.  I was not up for that at the time of all this planning (I did not want to do any body work!), but looking back on it I would have went with the race intercooler for the bigger HP support.

This engine build was going to cost me quite a bit of money but I think it would have been worth it.  The block would have been machined and built with quality parts, the head would have had a full rebuild with Street/Strip cams, and with the addition of a giant turbo I would have hoped to have the power up over 400HP.  I was planning on running 20Psi max at all times, so that I could have raced anyone at any time and not have to worry about changing any settings on a boost controller or other device, I could just pull up and go.  I was pretty sure that this car would have been a Porche killer as they say in the DSM community!

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