The rear rotors on my car were showing uneven wear. The fronts were as well, but this post will be how I replaced the rear rotors. As you can see, there was a line of rust forming on the rotor where the pads apparently were not making proper contact. From this I determined that the Rotors and Pads should be replaced.
I started by removing the brake caliper from the bracket. Using a 13mm wrench and a 13/16 open ended wrench I was able to remove the two bolts holding it to the brake pad carrier. You need the 13/16 to hold the square piece in place while you unbolt the 13mm. Once this bolt is removed, the caliper should just slide up off of the brake pads. Move the caliper out of the way for now, being careful not to damage the brake lines. You will then be able to slide the brake pads off of the bracket.
On this particular car, you will need to have triple square sockets to unbolt the brake pad carriers from the rear hub assembly. I believe the right size is 14. I was able to get these off using a long handled breaker bar without too much of an issue. Once these are removed, you will be able to get the rotor off.
On my passenger side, I had previously stripped the triple square bolt thinking that it was just a 3/8 socket end. Needless to say, I had a lot of trouble removing this bolt. However, I was able to jam a ½ socket end into the bolt using a hammer. Once that ½ socket was jammed in there I was able to remove the troublesome bolt with a giant breaker bar. Unfortunately I needed to reuse that bolt when reassembling. I put some anti-seize on it to try and make it easier to unbolt in the future.
Before you go and try to remove the rotor, you will need to remove the set screw that is holding the rotor in place. It is a T30 screw and should not be too difficult to remove, unless of course you turn it the wrong way and strip the head off, then it’s a PITA!
On the driver’s side I did just that. It was hot, I was talking to my neighbor while working, and then I turned it the wrong way and stripped the head off. Once I realized my error (after cursing myself of course) I was left trying to remove the set screw. I ended up using a grinder on the old rotor and cutting the head off. I would recommend using a drill bit and drilling it out but I did not have a good drill bit handy. If you plan on reusing the old rotors, don’t use a grinder! My rotor was pretty much destroyed afterwards, in an emergency it was usable but not for long. After popping the rotor off, I was able to unscrew the set screw and grind off the rest of the head. On re-assembly I was able to screw the remaining portion of the screw into the hub to use as a dowel, which allowed me to align the brake rotor.
After the set screw is removed, the rotor will come off. You would think that it would slide off but that is never the case. I had to use a hammer to bang on the rotor in order for it to come off. I was careful not to hit the rotor near the hub; I just smashed it on the sides where the brake pads make contact. After a couple of good hits, the rotor popped off.
Reassembly is the exact reverse of the removal process except that you will need to push the piston of the caliper back into its bore. I had previously purchased the Schwaben brake caliper piston tool which is very useful in accomplishing this task. However, I have previously used needle nose pliers and other such devices to accomplish the same thing. The kit just makes it easy. Using some Brakleen, clean the rotor with a clean cloth, then align the rotor using the set screw and screw the set screw back in. Once the rotor is in place, you will be able to put on the new pads and reassemble the caliper in the reverse fashion as when you took it apart.