After doing the front brake pads, realizing that the brake wear sensor was the problem and that the brake pads were probably fine, I discovered that both the front and rear rotors had uneven wear and were in need of replacement. I purchased all the parts required and did the front rotors first. After performing the switch, I realized that the rotors that I purchased were the incorrect size. I purchased the 288mm rotors instead of the 312mm rotors. I left them on since I destroyed the old ones getting them off and ordered a set of Powerstop rotorsand Padsfor the front. After waiting a week for the parts to come in (and for the weekend to roll around again) I went about tackling this job. This time around I decided I was going to bleed the brakes as well.
I started with the rears since I was going to bleed the brakes. It is recommended that you start with the brake caliper that is farthest from the master cylinder when bleeding the brakes; this will help prevent air from entering the system. Before bleeding the brakes, I performed the rotor and pad replacement found here.
After performing this full job and having the car on the road for almost a full week, I ran into a problem with the rear calipers. Apparently the triple square bolts that hold the brake pad carriers are single use only stretch bolts. I had one of them back out on my on the entrance to the Holland tunnel! I screwed it back in by hand but that did not stay very long with the condition of the roads in Manhattan. I stopped frequently to try and get through the day but eventually lost the bolt on the highway somewhere. You will need to purchase new bolts to hold the rear brake pad carriers when you replace the rear rotors, I purchased the proper bolts from ECS Tuning.
The specs are 60ft/lbs and then ¼ turn. If your car is on a lift it should be no problem, but if it’s on jack stands in your driveway it will be a bear! I had to use a flexible socket attachment to get enough space to properly torque the bolts down. Then I marked the bolts with a Sharpie and used a breaker bar to turn them the rest of the way. It was very difficult but I managed to get it done.
I had a vacuum kit to help me bleed the brakes myself but found it to be quite difficult to use properly. I could not get a good seal and air was getting into the system. After spending some time attempting to make that work, I went the old fashioned way and had my wife depress the brake pedal while I opened and closed the bleeder screw. The way to do it is to have someone depress the brake pedal, then you unscrew the bleeder screw. This should result in brake fluid squirting out pretty quickly. When it starts to die out, tighten the bleeder screw. When everything is tight, have your helper let go of the brake pedal. Do this until the flow of fluid is constant. Do this properly and your pedal pressure will be awesome!
After doing the rear brakes, it was time to tackle the fronts. Most of the work is covered in this post about replacing the front brake pads, but the rotors were a little difficult. You need to have a T30 socket or key to remove the rotor set screw and allow the front rotors to be removed.
You will need to hit the rotor with a hammer in order to get it to pop off. Over time the rotor becomes kind of seized to the hub and the best way to get it off is to hit it with a hammer. Hit it around the outside of the hub area and eventually it should pop off. It will seem like you are getting nowhere but all of a sudden the rotor just pops right off!
As stated earlier in this post, I performed the rotor replacement the week before and put the incorrect rotors on the vehicle. When I first did the job, I turned the wheel so that I would be able to hit the backside of the rotor with a soft hammer to try and remove. I was worried that I would not be able to get them off and would need to use them again. Needless to say, the soft hammer got me nowhere and I eventually switched to a heavier hammer. Upon further experience and evaluation, I have discovered that hitting the outside of the rotor alone would probably have been sufficient to get the rotor to pop off; this would eliminate turning the wheels while having the car in the air.
Putting the rotor back on is just the reverse of the above. Slide the rotor over the hub and line up the holes in the proper order so that you can put the set screw back in. Once the set screw is holding the rotor on you can put the caliper back on with the pads as stated in this post.