The procedure for replacing the front wheel bearings on a 2007 GMC Envoy is very similar to replacing them on an 05 Envoy as seen in this post.
Requirements for performing this repair are
Front Wheel Bearings
and a slide hammer. I’m assuming that you have an assortment of sockets and wrenches, you will need those too!
The first thing you need to do is to pop the cap off the end of the wheel and loosen the lug nuts as well as the front axle nut. Do this while the truck is on the ground to make it easier on you. Trying to get that nut loose while the tire is spinning in the air is not the most fun. I used a 36MM socket with a breaker bar to loosen the Axle nut.
Use a breaker bar with a 36MM socket to loosen the axle nut while the wheel is on the ground
I took the nut completely off while it was still on the ground
Jack up the vehicle with your jack, if you own an Envoy I recommend getting the Craftsman 4 ton hydraulic jack, it picks up the Envoy with ease. Place a jack stand underneath the frame rails and lower the truck onto it. I usually keep the jack in contact with the frame for a little insurance.
Support the vehicle with jack stands
At this point you will remove the wheel from the truck leaving you staring at the brake rotor and caliper.
To remove the caliper, unbolt the two 18MM bolts and pull the caliper off the rotor. I had to use a screwdriver to pry the caliper away from the rotor, but it did not take much force. Once the caliper was over the small lip of the rotor it slid right off.
Unbolt the two 18MM Caliper mounting bolts
I used a screwdriver to pry the caliper off the rotor. This did not take a lot of effort
Once the caliper is a little pry’d off the rotor it will pull off with ease
Put the caliper off to the side.
You will then need to remove the rotor from the wheel bearing. There are two metal lock washers that help keep the rotor snug against the wheel bearing. I was able to pretty much screw them off, a little bit of coercion with needle nose pliers was required on one of them…. Once removed, you can slide the rotor off of the wheel bearing.
Remove the lock washers
This is the old wheel bearing exposed after removing the brake rotor
The axle is held in place with the 36MM axle nut. Remove this nut, it should be fairly easy since the first thing you did was to break it while the wheel was on the ground!
The next thing you will need to do is remove the three 18MM bolts that are holding the wheel bearing in place.
Remove the three wheel bearing bolts, the next picture shows the top bolt
The new wheel bearings will come with the wheel speed sensors already connected and ready to go. So you will want to unplug the sensor from the vehicle and remove all the plastic clips that hold it in place. There are quite a few of them so make sure you get them all disconnected. You don’t want to get the wires caught on anything when you move on to the next part!
These are the location of the clips. Some are not in view but i’ve circled where they would be
Now the fun part! I love my slide hammer! Use an attachment to get the slide hammer mounted to the wheel bearing. If you have any difficulty due to the axle, push the axle in. There is a little play there and it should be enough to get the slide hammer mounted.
I used the big hand attachment and the lug nuts to attach the slide hammer to the wheel bearing
Slide hammer fully attached
Once the slide hammer is in place, Use it! Two or three good hits with the slide hammer and my wheel bearings popped right out! That slide hammer is priceless when it comes to taking out wheel bearings!
The backing plate will most likely come off with the wheel bearing, this is okay and with a little persuasion it can be taken off the old wheel bearing and swapped to the new one. Make sure to route the wheel speed sensor wires through the hole in the backing plate and put the backing plate on the correct way. If you are paying attention it is obvious, but if you are not you can cause yourself a lot of work! I know from experience! The flat part goes underneath where the brake caliper is mounted!
Slide the new wheel bearing into the hole making sure that the axle is being slid into its new home with ease. Then line up the bolt holes for the new bearing and tighten them up. I tightened them in a circular pattern a couple of turns at a time to make sure the wheel bearing slid into its bore correctly. I did not see anywhere in any service literature that I read to do that but it just seemed like it was the right thing to do. These bolts get torqued down to 77 ft lbs.
This is the new bearing installed
At this point the brake rotor gets slid on, the caliper put back in place, and the axle nut put back on. The axle nut gets torque down to 102 ft lbs; I waited till the truck was back on the ground to torque it down.
This job was pretty simple and it fixed the grinding noise that we were experiencing on the truck. I’m pretty sure that following these directions will get you through the job without too much difficulty. Remember, you will need the new wheel bearings and a slide hammer. That slide hammer makes all the difference in the world, get it!
New Wheel Bearings